*OK a big one-- lots to tell about in this post!*
After getting back from Nguna last Monday, Sandie, Jessica and I hunkered back down at our old guesthouse at Eman Imalo, resuming our places in room #11. We spent most of the day sipping smoothies on the waterfront, and making plans for the week to come- what to do in Vanuatu, and were to stay in New Zealand. We had high hopes of taking a trip to one of other islands by passenger ship, but with boat schedules conflicting and different ideas of how each of us wanted to spend our last days there, we settled on splitting off. Sandie and Jess stayed back in Vila for some quality time with old friends- Etha, Frankie, Mark, and Robert, while I made up my mind 15 minutes before the Air Vanuatu offic e closed on Monday to go get myself a ticket to Tanna Island, leaving on the next available flight Wednesday morning.
Sandie's week: Jess and myself were keen to spend as much time as possible with our Ni-van friends, so a few extra days in Vila was just what we wanted. Wednesday found us hiking down to the local market to buy fresh foods for a picnic lunch with Etha. We had such a lovely catch-up with lots of reminiscing from our time on Tanna last year. Thursday was spent enjoying beach weather, getting burns, and ending the day with a few Tusker's (Vanuatu's local beer). Air Vanuatu's pilots all happened to be out for an evening of fun and showed Jess and I a good time. We explored some of Vila's expat nightlife and had hangover's the next day to prove it! The rest of our time was spent enjoying all of the company our friends had to offer and getting to know Vila a wee bit more. Sandie had another lesson in sunscreen application after experiencing an awful burn that lasted way too long.
Amanda's week: The major draw to Tanna was Yasur Volcano, the most accessible active volcano in the world, and one of the main tourist hot spots in Vanuatu. After a 40 min flight, the 2 hour drive across the island to the bungalow was an exciting one: the roads got worse and worse as we went, turning from bumpy pavement, to dirt, and then to paths only 4-wheel drive vehicles could navigate. We stopped at a small roadside market in the shade of a giant banyan tree, and enjoyed views of small villages and smiling waving people along the way. The sun had set by the time I arrived at Island Dream bungalow in Port Resolution, but the hosts Nancy and Nassam cooked up a wonderful meal of veggies and rice before they left me in my own little hut for the night. All I could make out in the darkness was the red glow of Yasur just over the ridge.
My timing couldn't have been better arriving at the bungalow- in the next village over about a 45 minute walk away, a ceremony was being held to celebrate the circumcision of 5 young boys f
rom 2 different families, between the ages of 6 and 11. It's a tradition widely practiced on Tanna and much of Vanuatu, held a few times a year in a village when the parents of these boys feel... it's their time. The boys leave their families for around 5 weeks to stay at the nakamal, a taboo place in the village where only men are allowed. The cut is carried out by an elder man in the village with a sharpened bamboo blade and a local anesthetic of some kind. They'll stay a few more weeks, and then this ceremony is held when the boys come out to see their mothers and the other women in their families once again. 
The whole thing was amazing to see. In a large clearing there were men (and very ripped ones at that ;) ) wearing purple and green skirts (from each family) bringing out piles and piles of food and gifts to be exchanged between families. It was divided in 2 and piled high in layers of fruits, root veggies, smoked meat, colourful fabrics, woven mats and baskets. As the hours went by and the gifts were arranged, a conch shell was sounded and a procession of men and the boys came out with painted faces to be welcomed back to their crying mother's arms. Pigs and cows were also offered, and I witnessed animals being killed for the first time. No easy sight to see...(or hear), but it was comforting knowing they at least lived happy lives in comparison to their North American cousins. From there, there was lots of dancing and singing to enjoy, complete with colourful face paint, grass skirts and even garland they wore around their heads.
After a lazy afte
rnoon and a walk to the black sand beach, it was time for Yasur! I was joined at the bungalow by an Australian family of doctors and their 2 kids, who I went along with on a tour to the volcano. A drive across the ash plain, up the mountain, and a short walk brought us to the rim. Standing near the edge we were witness to periodic bursts of lava fireworks , with the occasional ash cloud and sulphur explosions. Too amazing for words- I never imagined witnessing anything like it. One epic wonder of nature :) Friday I spent some time with Andrew, Trudy, Allister and Samantha (Dr family) and went for a walk through Port Resolution village (named by Capn Cook himself) and on to the White Sand Beach. The kids, Allister and Sam had gone on ahead with Nancy's daughter Wahpoo to the beach to swim with a group other kids. It was funny to come walk up the hill on to a stunning stretch of white sand, completely empty but for a group of almost 20 little ones with the beach all to themselves. We enjoyed a bit of snorkeling before we passed around our goggles to share with the kids, who I think enjoyed them more than I ever have. A long day in the sun was followed by a delicious dinner, and a trip to see the 'John Frum' worship a few villages away. John Frum is a sort of cargo cult from the 1940s, when many Americans landed on the shores of Vanuatu during WWII. Many villagers in remote places had never seen such modern technology, and revered the novelties they brought. And so years later, groups have continued to get together and sing about the return of a certain "John Frum..."America. Interesting stuff.
Saturday- After an early morning swim, Amanda returns from Tanna to find wine and Tuskers already flowing. Franky, Mark, and Robert came over to Iman Emalo to join in on the fun. The boys, of course, had to have their kava session before indulging in any liquor. We all ventured out to a bar downtown and enjoyed a night of dance and drinking. The next two days were spent enjoying the amazing weather, and searching for Ww
oofing in New Zealand- it was hard to imagine that we were indeed leaving this paradise. Monday afternoon we decided to rent ourselves some scooters- as Jess had zero experience we rented a 2 seater for Amanda and a single for Sandie. Our scooter provider gave us next to zero encouragement leaving us with tales of "many accidents", and untrustworthy taxi drivers. His final words to us were, "Don't kill yourselves", followed by an awkward giggle. It was a lovely ride to Pango, in and around Vila, with quick jaunt out to the entrance of the Cascades. After a sprinkling of rain and a small fright, Sandie has retired from scooter riding. We were all thanking our lucky stars and decided tonight was as good as any to get "kava'd". Prior to arriving in Vanuatu we had decided kava would be something we would experience in all it's glory, and so we left Jess and ventured out with Franky to our local Nakamal. It was a
mazing to have Franky with us as he was an excellent guide to teach us the ins and outs of kava. He told us the appropriate time to wait between shells (equals about a cup) of kava, as kava is not something you chug. Another lesson in kava etiquette- spitting is essential. You CAN'T help but spit repeatedly. The nakamal is a very quiet place, kava is not a drink that makes you loud and boisterous. After 3 shells we were beginning to feel the spirit of kava- let me tell you, it is a slow one. Feeling as though we could handle more, we got some kava to go, using Jessi's water bottle, and Franky came with us back to Eman Imalo to finish off our drinks. The feeling of kava is not comparable to anything we've ever had. We felt like we weighed about 5 hundred pounds each and our movements were very slow and awkward. Jess describes us as quite dull, but a novelty. Quickly drinking our last shells, Amanda most immediately turned green. Franky let us know LATER that we should have been eating something at this point as is would ward off sickness. Thanks for that! ;) We slipped into a deep sleep hoping we would awake the next morning refreshed and energetic.Tuesday- Our
last day in Vanuatu. Amanda and Sandie woke up with gigantic kava hangovers- not to be confused with an alcohol hangover. We felt a few hundred pounds lighter but still sluggish and a little nauseous. The Cascades waterfall was the last destination on our list, and must-see in Vila. Despite the steady downpour (the first we had this whole trip, and very in-tuned with our emotions) we walked through gorgeous jungle on our way to a most beautiful waterfall. Making our way uphill, over steams and through the bush, we came to a five-story waterfall that swept over slippery stones. The whole scene around was something out of a story book- it's hard to grasp just how stunning it was. We ended the night spending a wonderful evening with Frankie and Mark, and were just floored at one of the most amazing gifts ever--- Frankie wrote us a SONG (and let the waterworks begin). A theme song, if you will- about the 3 of us. Such a thoughtful thing to do- THANK YOU Frankie, you are unbelievably sweet, will listen to it always and think of you and wonderful Vanuatu.Wednesday and up before the sun- away we go... NZ here we come! So much sadness consumed us as we left this beautiful place, but much excitement too- whose to say what a year among the kiwis will bring? Thanks for the laughs and the memories Vanuatu, lukim yu :)
No comments:
Post a Comment